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P H O T O G R A P H Y
small city in the Belgian province of West-Flanders. The population
is about 45,000 in the old city and 120,000 if you include the
outlying area. Often called "the Venice of the North", Bruges is a
medieval canal city that, unlike most of Belgium, survived two World
Wars virtually unscathed. This fact is due largely to the city's
location in the far northwest corner of the country -- remote from
both France and Germany -- and because of the town's lack of
strategic importance to its warring neighbors.
Bruges' isolation is our good fortune. On a continent teaming with
scenic small towns and cities, this is certainly one of the most
beautiful and well-preserved. So well preserved, in fact, that the
historic center of Bruges has been designated as a Unesco World
Heritage site. It is the home of ancient buildings, magnificent
churches and cathedrals, world-class works of art, marvelous
restaurants and sidewalk cafes, and the most beautiful canal system
this side of Venice.
The best way to see Bruges is to stay in one of the many hotels in
or around the old city and explore on foot. The vast majority of
destinations are within walking distance, and taxis are abundant for
the more distant ones or for the foot-weary visitor. Like in all
ancient cities, the streets can be a confusing labyrinth that make a
city map a necessity for visitors. The entire city is a destination, so
savor it and leave time for unplanned stops or to linger in a favorite
spot.
One of my favorite sights is The Beguinage (Begijinhof, in Flemish).
The Beguinage is a monastery for an order of Benedictine nuns and
is open to the public. Many of its buildings date to the 16th and
17th centuries, and it is a quiet and photogenic haven in the city.
Equally peaceful and scenic is the Minnewater, a canalized lake and
surrounding park. Look for reflections of the trees and buildings
lining the lake, and for the resident swans which glide over its
surface.
If you seek even quieter surroundings, visit one of Bruges' ancient
churches. Our Lady's Church is an architectural treat, but the real
reason to visit lies within. Here you will find one of the few works of
the master sculptor, Michelangelo, located outside of Italy -- the
famed Madonna. Another, smaller church not to be missed is the
Chapel of the Holy Blood. Constructed during the 12th and 13th
centuries, its outside walls are adorned with gilt statues of Flemish
counts. Inside it houses many treasures, including the Relic of the
Holy Blood -- a small crystal container said to hold the blood of
Christ, preserved from the crucifixion.
For a bit more hustle and bustle go to the town square, called the
Grote Makt, or Market Place, which provides plenty of activity and
commerce. Here you'll find vendors offering horse and carriage
tours, numerous shops (don't miss the Belgian chocolates), and
sidewalk cafes and restaurants. Dominating the square is The
Belfry, an imposing tower which contains a beautiful-sounding
47-bell carillon. You can reach the top of The Belfry after
conquering the 366 thigh-burning steps that take you there. The
view and photo opportunities from atop makes it all worthwhile, and
you will want to linger and catch your breath before descending the
same steps to return to the square.
For those not inclined to attempt the trek to the top of The Belfry, a
view of the city from a canal boat may have more appeal.
Unfortunately, these boats lack the intimacy and languid pace of the
gondolas in Venice, opting instead for motors and a dozen or more
passengers per tour. Still, it's a great way to see the city and its
architecture go by while comfortably seated.
Whether climber or cruiser, everyone needs to eat. And this is
where Bruges really shines. North Belgian cuisine borrows the best
from its neighbors by combining the heartiness of German food with
the rich sauces of France. It is absolutely superb. Ask for
recommendations at your hotel desk, and don't be afraid to venture
off the standard tourist track. After a few days of fine Belgian
dining, you will understand the value in walking around the city.
No trip to Bruges is complete without sampling the Trappist Ales of
the region. There are only 6 Trappist breweries in the world, and
they're all in Belgium. The monks who brew this stuff are divinely
inspired, and it is truly a pleasure to relax in a courtyard or at a
sidewalk cafe while indulging in a Trappist ale (or two) and watching
horse-drawn carriages clatter by on the cobblestone streets. It is a
European experience not to be missed.
Photography in Bruges is much like in any other city. You certainly
won't be alone as virtually everyone visiting Bruges carries a
camera. The areas where photography is prohibited, mainly inside
some of the churches and art museums, are clearly marked and
should be respected. Otherwise, there are virtually limitless photo
opportunities. One word of advice -- be sure that you have a way to
protect your gear from any sudden rain showers that roll in from the
North Sea. And when the sky is overcast, use it as an opportunity
to zoom in on architectural details. Avoiding those bland grey skies
can be the difference between just another tourist photo and one
worthy of framing.
No matter why or when you visit, don't just make Bruges a stop on
one of those ten-cities-in-eight-days tours. This stunning town
deserves to be explored and lingered over for several days or more.
Do that and it just may become your favorite European destination
too.
from the Belfry
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